Research

After looking at many vogue issues, watching films and simply looking at fashion in the 50's/60's I have realised they are both a brilliant era to look at. As they are both in there own way made the fashion today what it is, with the empathised waste, bold patterns and colours along with the long skirts. They have all appeared back into the world of fashion again as they have been remembered as great.

David Bailey

http://www.vogue.co.uk/magazine/archive/issue/1964/October%232

David Bailey first Vogue cover is in the 1961 February issues, his first cover is very simple and is still similar to thouse of the 1950s vogue covers. However the the make up used is a bit more heavy than the 50s so it almost stands out like the red and coral colour of her bag and clothes. The first thing you notice is the red lips and purse against the pale background, it's as if David Bailey wanted to the red of the lips and bag to be emphasised.

This cover of Jean Shrimptom is stunning the way her eye is positioned on the cover captures your attention because of the way the images has been taken. It's as if David Bailey thought the make up was the main focus for this month. Her make up and the daisy's contrast is really interesting as it gives the cover a sense of freshness and its just a really simple idea that gives Vogue a different appearance. Compared to the April 1964 issue you see the models eyes in the 'O' and 'G' which again captures your attention and gives Vogue a different approach as before you didn't see this been done. David Bailey wanted to be a bit more daring which is why in the sixties he was a great inspiration with his photography he said that "The only way to be creative was in fashion photography" (The 60'shave never ended interview, April 8th 2010, youtube) 

Here you can see that Bailey was able to capture the crazy bold print in his front cover as his part of his art work. I do like how he has managed to have the bold print as the main focus on the cover with the small about of text, you can't even see the entire word Vogue on this cover. However you don't really need to see the word the 'O' and 'G' is just enough to see what the magazine is called and its recognised enough to know what it is. 

The October 1964, December 1944 and July 1965 David Bailey photographs a tanned models which introduces the way of travel and a new look in a way where you can be tanned. This has become a more of a craze that has developed over time where more women are tanned and in a way a lot more sexual as at this time it was not seen. Sophia Loren became an icon int the 50s and 60s as a different sexual actress that is much more the outgoing party animal than the typical girl next door like Grace Kelly.  

As a bit more research I looked at some of the 1970's Vogues to compare the 50s and 60s, they have definitely changed especially the make up as its a lot more darker and bolder to look at.  The photos seem to be different as well as its like there is a different lens to the camera where its a bit more of a misty look to the image unlike the fresh look of the 1960s. Towards the end of the 1970's the covers have become a lot more playful and free to his creativity which I think has helped improve the magazines image today to be more daring. 

Skulls interview, December 21st 2011

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZMqIoy7Hdg

The 60s have never ended, April 8th 2010

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQbyQgkOB9s

East End, July 5th 2012

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZMqIoy7Hdg

Pure Sixties 

http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/3af560fe-27b8-11df-863d-00144feabdc0.html#axzz2tWOBl7fO

Acne Paper

http://www.acnepaper.com/

 

With the Acne paper magazine this is such a good looking magazine where you don't even need to read whats in it its more about the layout and how the images tell a story. As i have decided to do a book of all of my images that I have drawn of the fashion in the 1950s and 1960s, I looked at this magazine for inspiration as I  find it very hard to get inspired to do a layout of a book from previous projects. The way the text and images flow on the pages and work as a story is what I want for my project. You can see the that some pages are just text or some pages are just images but has a nice flow to it, with the layout from Vogue and this magazine I think this is will be interesting for my book. 

I really like how the images have been placed on the pages in this magazine as they tell a story on the pages the different sizes weather they fill the page or if they are very small they just look so interesting on the page and makes the image work as well. Not only do the images work but the way the text works, typography they use reminds me of Vogue in a way as it's very simple and easy to read. It's creative in the way it works with the images they describe.  

Here is my research all put together I chose to tie it all together with poker dot ribbon to keep a theme going with the tissue paper. I wanted to keep the binding simple here as I felt it gave it a sketch book feel to my research, together with my book they work you can see they go together. 

With my research, I'm very proud of it as I feel that from the beginning of my project I was heading towards a different subject to then the subject of fashion which I was not expecting. I feel that my research is very visual and more about what you see then content as I was focusing more on what I could see and the look of women. 

I feel this has come out in my book as I was focusing on the finer details than the bigger picture, I wanted to capture women in both decades which I have done in this book.      

1960's

Dior

http://archive.vidcat.com/1960s-fashion-christian-dior-1961/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24wfb3spKHA

Chanel

http://adore-vintage.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/vintage-chanel-fashion-1950s-1960s.html

http://inside.chanel.com/en/timeline/1960_the-1960s

http://www.stylelist.com/view/the-story-behind-the-little-black-dress/

Stars such as Elizabeth Taylor, Jane Fonda, Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly, Jeame Moreau all wear the latest fashion from Chanel.

In 1962- March, French actress Delphine Seyrig wear custom Chanel designs in the Alain Resnais film last year at Marienbad.
June- Romy Schneider wears a wardrobe by Chanel in the Luchino Virscanti.

1965- Following Pierre Wertheimer's death, his son Jacques takes executive control of the house.

1966- Ali Macgraw appears as a bathing beauty in ads for the brands bath product. Chanel bucks mini skirt trend, keeping her hemlines at the knee. Couture's grande dame will soon declare the short skirts "The most absurd weapon women has ever employed to seduce men."

1968- Rogue Hydrobase Moisturising lipstick launched. Catherine Deneuve becomes the face of Chanel No5 which ruins for a decade.

1969- Beauty artist Dominque Mancourists named international director of make up.

The Little Black Dress

The little black dress became a big hit with the older and younger generation, the little black dress was seen to make a women seen as not pure to the public. The younger generation took the dress a lot shorter as the 1960s were seen as the mini skirt era, where as the older generation showed the dress as more of a classic, elegant style like Aubrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffanies.

  1960s Vogue fonts

In the 1960s the fonts and layouts have became a lot more freer and not as structured as in the 1950s. However not much has changed for the main part of text but the headings have become a lot more bolder different modern fonts are used. 

As the fashion in the 6os has became a lot more bolder, fun and out there so has the fonts to almost keep up with the changing fashion. 

You can see why Vogue has done this as at this time fashion hit a new young generation which it needed to keep. In some of the articles not a lot of type is used it's not needed as the images speak for themselves, I do like how the text works with the image. The text will change position on the page i.e on the slant which you start to see in some of the pages. 

 

1950s

In the 1950s:

Here you can see how the fashion and what the women looked like in the 1950s. Just by looking that these images you can see that women were perceived as the typical house wife and stay at home mum. At this time Marilyn Monroe was the the only lady that was seen with little clothing and a very different fashion to Grace Kelly. The hair and clothes are very procaine and they almost look the same and very normal. 

 http://www.acsu.buffalo.edu/~mwaltos/lis506/project/1950s/fashion.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1945–60_in_fashion

Stereotypically you see women in the 1950's with an apron and this was seen as the normal vision for women at this time.  When I have looked at Vogue magazine, I have noticed that a lot of the adverts show the something to do with house hold things such as cleaning, cooking or taking care of their children. However this seems so different to now as you see many adverts that advertise make up or other luxury's. 

House of Dior

http://www.dior.com/couture/en_gb/the-house-of-dior/the-story-of-dior/the-new-look-revolution

On the 12th of February 1947 Christian Dior, 42, presented his new collection.

"It's quite a revolution, dear Christian Dior! Your dresses have such a new look"

The new look which included longer lengths, silhouettes, small waist and a perked up bust help create the new look, which became a big hit practically over night. Dior wanted to give women back their taste along with their seductive side which changed the fashion overall. He hand crafted many of his designs:

"I wanted my dresses to be 'constructed', moulded on the curves of the female body whose contours they would stylise. I accentuated the waist, the volume of the hips, I emphasised the bust. In order to give my models more hold, I had nearly all the fabrics lined with percale or taffeta, renewing a tradition that had long been abandoned."     

Here is 'The bar suit' this look made is collection as its coat flaunted the waist and the bust along with the famous flared out skirt that was seen throughout the rest of the 1940s/1950's. The hat and gloves finished off the look with elegance that made the women's appearance look luxurious. The way that the outfit looks on the model is simple but flaunts enough skin and sex appeal to onlookers, this is what Dior wanted when he wanted to bring out the inner seductive side out. 

This look even now has been reinvented with pencil skirts and tailored straight trousers, it has been an interesting design to the fashion world. 

Chanel

http://inside.chanel.com/en/jacket/video

http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Chanel

http://www.chanel.com/en_GB/

http://inside.chanel.com/en/timeline/1960_the-1960s

In 1954 Chanel stages the re-opening of her couture house which she inspires a second fashion revolution with her original creations. 

   

 In 1954 Marilyn Monroe says she wears Chanel no5 to bed which gives the brand a sense of luxury because at this time Marilyn Monroe was the most inspirational women at this time. In February the 5th Chanel stages a comeback at the Rue Comban that showed off simple suits, dresses which again like Dior created styles that would be seen and be reinvented. In March Vogue features Chanel's new looks, you can also see movie stars such as Grace Kelly sport the Chanel look.

Other signature pieces:

• 1955: The 2.55 bag, that is a quilited leather handbag with a gold chain that is light and strong

• 1956: The collarless jacket suit that was seen to be worn by Ingrid Berghen in the Robert Anderson's play Tea and sympathy in Paris

• 1957: Braid trim that appears on jackets and cardigans and the two toned shoes that are slingback that shortens the foot and lengthens the leg

"Enabling women to move with ease, to not feel like they're in costume. Not changing attitude or manner depending on their dress. It's very difficult and the human body is always moving." Gabrielle Chanel talking about the Chanel jacket. 

• 1959: Jeanne Moreau wears Chanel suits- tweed, black with camellia accent in Roger Vadims Les Liaisons Dangereuses  

You can see how over time Chanel has influenced the fashion world with the bold trim on the jackets and new materials such as tweed is used that makes the fashion more excitable to women. 

1950's Vogue fonts

The fonts or font used in the 1950s Vogue's are very much the same throughout. It's very plain simple typography almost like new times roman or something like this. The layout for the Vogue writing is spaced like a normal formal text almost like a newspaper, it's very much structured and not a lot of freedom is seen with the type and fonts.

When you read parts it's very much about situations the typical 1950s women would be doing such as being a housewife and mother. 

The only experimental fonts you see is through the adverts for make up or cigarettes, where it's very fun font that suits the branding. The comparisons is very different as it's as if Vogue is struck in a structure and fun isn't really seen through the magazine.